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IDEA NOTE: This idea is open for working models and improvements. I have hardly any experience with steppor motors/worm gears, and have few tools and material to do this. (Update: It is very possible to use regular motors of particular qualities) So if you want to try it, and it works, you will be given credit in the overall design and construction. Just because I have designed this does not mean you cant try something based on this design. Every design, even patents, can be improved, its valid logic so that growth is not limited. Off the shelf solar trackers, perhaps two of them, have a good possibility in this system. There are pro’s and cons to every heliostat system, for example weather it is electronically or (blindly) steered using an electronic timing program, or senses the sunlight for steering. Some systems here on YouTube even uses a “water timing” method to steer at 15 degrees per hour.
Your input is needed on the forums where all the nuts and bolts about related things can be discussed.

The benefits of this design: Simplicity and perhaps low cost. Does not need any computer for timing. The same heliostat would work on Earth, the Moon, Mars, etc., without any new computer timing and the corresponding computer/.electronic timing program to actuate the motors to move the mirror.

Downside to the benefits: May have to be manually steered/aligned a bit at least once a day if the sensors cannot handle it. It is possible that the sensors can be turned/adjusted a bit to assist this daily alignment if need be, along with the gears.

This is basically like my previous video (please view and read the notes there), but here I show were the light sensors would be, as I described before.
For the light sensors, there is no “pots” (voltage/current potentiometers) that I was thinking of in the circuitry. Just some “comparator” or “logic” circuitry. When the (say vertical) sensor is aimed at the sun both will be “illuminated on” giving a signal as such. This signal should “shut/turn off” the motor. When one sensor of the (say vertical) sensor team is illuminated a motor will be turned on to rotate the gear so that both sensors will be illuminated and then the motor will turn off.

The sensors might be: light dependent resistors, small solar cells, photo resistors, certain color led’s. All these are currently being used elsewhere on the internet to steer “solar trackers” for solar panels. You will have to be very conscience of stray light hitting the sensors. Small flat black tubes or shadeing needs to be considerd, and the size of the openings to the sensors.

I believe a steppor type motor is necessary, and probably a worm gear (or other low ratio gear system) to increase the “fine tuning” of the the adjustments the motors will take to track the sun. A very simple method/circuit to activate the motors is only necessary I believe. No special circuitry, except that the vertical motor will need to be reversable since the sun “goes up” and then “goes down” vertically in the sky throughout the daylight hours. Note, the motors can either be directly attached to the axis of the horizontal and vertical gears, or gear/pully connected to those gears. Most likely a gear/pully – non direct drive – would be used for “fine aligning” the heliostat….specifically, it would take several pulses of the motor to amount to one minimal movement of the heliostat.

Note, this is only a basic drawing to show the functional design possibilites. There’s lots to “improvee”. For example, the vertical adjust gears would most likely be in a upright/vertical position, perhaps afixed to a metal frame. Also, where the mirror is attached leaves some ideas open, such as the gear section where the mirror is attached should be flat for better holding of the mirror.

Along with the design, all the testing and improvements are needed.

There are several good websites with good discussions about heliostats. Here is one I recently found, with a DIY heliostat and discussions I think people interested (if not for yourself, but for others you know, etc): https://www.iwilltry.org/b/projects/build-a-heliostat-for-solar-heating-and-lighting/

redrok.com has good discussions also for DIY heliostats.

Please visit this forum for solar and cnc projects – make a connection and sign up for a forum if you havent by now:

https://cerebralmeltdown.com/forum/index.php

Please see my previous videos also on heliostat for any notes I didnt place here.

I recently put “non quartz” in the title. Basically this means no electronic/computer timing method is used for this heliostat to track the sun. A quartz crystal is used to keep the accurate timing of these devices, and was/is used alot in clocks/watches and many electronic devices today. Many good heliostats actually use electronic timing, but this project is for one without timing.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-demo_trailer_hub_magnet_replacement.aspx

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

When one wheel does not seem to be stopping as quick as the others it may be because the brake magnet needs to be replaced. We put together a short video to help you recognize this problem and to show you how easy it is to fix it. Keep your trailer safe for yourself and others on the road by checking and replacing parts like the brake magnet when needed.

What we are going to do is show you a few comparisons here. We took off another hub on the trailer right next to it. What happened was you can see on the hub on the left hand side there are actually rings on where the wheel studs are. It is also supposed to be more a flat finish compared to the new ones on the right hand side there. What happened was the magnet that was designed to wear on the hub has actually been riding on the hub too long when the brakes were not being used. It just happens that way. What happens is it wears down and makes those grooves and makes an uneven finish. What that uneven finish does is make the magnet not work so well. Like in this instance we had 3 wheels that were working great and this one which was not. This one has those grooves in there so that just deteriorates the performance of the brake. There is nothing you can do but replace the hub or find a brake shop that can actually plane that inside of the hub down to make it a flat finish again. It may be hard to find a shop to do that such as in our case. So we are just going to go ahead and replace the the hub with a new one considering that the inside bearing was worn down also. Since the hub is worn down we will have to replace the magnet to match the new flat face thats going to be on there.

To replace our magnet here we have to do a few things. Release the magnet from this arm and cut these wires here. Also get them away from these clips here. Do save the clips because they do not come with the new magnet so you will need them to put it back on. First off we will just clip the wires off here. Next pull these clips off. Then to take the magnet off the arm you have to remove this clip here. The wires go through a fitting that kind of seals it off from the outside. What we need to do is punch that through from the inside. Now we just pass that junction and get some fresh wire. Then leave that alone and install our new magnet. We start off by installing our spring. It kinda just sets there in place. Slide on our new magnet. Make sure our wires are going the right way. It also comes with a new clip here that holds it into place. Lets go ahead and push that in. Might have to tap it on then make sure there is plenty of movement. If yours does not have that much movement maybe clean it up a little bit. Maybe a slight dab of grease but thats a last ditch effort. As long as it moves inside and out like that it will be just fine.

Now what we are going to do is slide our wire clips back on. Then we will poke it through the hole, run it back through the plate here and let that lie. We then put these back where they used to be. Then we will put our little wire fitting back on there. It is kinda hard to tell but what it does is sets it into place and pushed together. Then it comes back through the plate. Once it gets plugged back into place we can redo our connections. Just for reference the magnets do not care about polarity as long as one wire goes to absolute ground and one wire goes to the power. We will go ahead and make some our connections with quick connects. Then our magnet install will be complete. We are using a gel filled quick connect. They work better for outside use. Take those and zip tie them to the back so they will not flop around or anything. Now we can just reinstall our hub.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.