OEM Factory for TU-1C90 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve to Georgia Manufacturers

https://acsdata.com/data-recovery/ ~~~WARNING~~~ ****THIS IS NOT AN INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO**** There are key steps and some proprietary information that has been edited out. This is also only a 10 minute video, where just the head swap alone can take well over an hour depending on the drive. We also don’t show our method for aligning the heads on this particular model.

This video was originally produced because many of our customers were simply curious, or ill informed about what is done to physically repair a hard drive for recovery. This video is not intended to make you think swapping heads is easy. This video is not intended to make you think you can do it yourself. In 99% of this cases, if you attempt this on your own, even within a clean room environment, you will probably lose your data for good.

Also, just because your drive is clicking, does not necessarily mean the heads are bad. Proper diagnosis is key with doing data recovery correctly. Most lower level companies will just try to swap the heads, when it may be a PCB or firmware issue. When the head swap doesn’t work, they will say your data is unrecoverable. We get drives like that in every week, where a customer has been told the heads are bad, when they weren’t. So just because your drive is clicking, there maybe something more to it, but you won’t have the proper equipment needed to verify this or not and neither will a lower end data recovery firm.

The simple message here is, if your data is critical, make absolutely sure you let a professional data recovery firm do the recovery. Even if you have no desire at all to send a hard drive to us for recovery, PLEASE shop around, do your homework on the industry and ask for solid references from the company you do choose. If they are local, maybe even stop by their offices just to check them out first. There are literally thousands of companies out there that say they do this type of work, but VERY few actually do. If they say they can do a physical recovery for $199, you might want to keep shopping. The parts alone can be more than that. In most cases, a physical recovery is going to run anywhere from $600 to $1,500+ depending on the size of the drive, and the type of failure that has occurred.

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This video covers how to chase pipes into a wall or floor screed. Enjoy!

Today we are looking into screeding, I also have to sink pipes into a wall. Now, this was suggested to us by a lovely man on Twitter, I think he was called “disco dimmer” or something like that. His question’s appearing in the screen below me right now. So, anyway, as you can see, we’ve got lovely chase here, it’s been chased down lovingly by Gavin. And if you look closely, we can see, the more you start, this is basically coming out with a grinder. And I’m sure all along, he wore gloves, and he wore goggles and mask. And basically, he’s ground it out, ground it out of there. And then used an SDS router or a chisel, to just gut all this all out, and then sweep all that away. We look at the floor, we can see that he’s made a lovely little screen out just here. We get down, and have a quick look, we’re gonna see that it’s quite deep screen. So we’ve got good sort of, 40 or 50 mil there. And also, if you look here as well, we’ve got a pipe in here. You see, that’s nice and deep there as well. We’ve got a hell of a lot of room. So the thing you’ve got to think about, that’s really important when it comes to sinking pipes into the wall, is obviously the depth of the wall itself, how you’re gonna fix the pipe, so when someone comes over to render this wall, or plaster it or anything like that, that the pipes aren’t gonna move. And also, really, really, importantly, there how you’re going to try to insulate your copper pipe. Now, there’s kind of two ways you can attack it. You can either insulate it to stop the heat getting out, which is obviously a brilliant way, and also kills two birds with one stone. This is very important that the concrete, or any kind of render, doesn’t touch the copper itself, ’cause it can rot through it. So, hopefully, depending on the depth of the screed, we should be allowed to fit in this nice 15 mil by 30 mil wall. And it’s still got enough depth to then be able to render over that. Sometimes you’re trying to sink pipe into a single brace stop wall, which is only as much as four inches deep sometimes. When that happens, you’re gonna want to dig out a pipe there, and then basically gaffer tape up the pipe. We find that that helps to stop anything kind of climbing onto the pipe when it’s drying out.
Basically, what we’re gonna do is, I’ve got some double clips. We’re gonna pop a few double clips in down here, get our pipes laid out in the bottom, and basically get our pipes up in the thing, ready for Gavin to come over here in a few days’ time, to render up, and then we’ll be fitting the radiator back on in a couple of weeks. So yeah, let’s do that now, and I hope you enjoy it. We’ll have just a quick look here, at the depth that we’ve got. See if we can give him enough clearance. I mean, that is lovely. So we can get a nice pipe round there, we’re gonna screen over the top of that, absolute treat. This is going up through the wall, and then out at the top, it’s gonna elbow sort of back over up in the loft space. Just gonna put the elbow there now. Pop that through on up. Ah, look at that. Huge amount of space, there, now. Well, it’s now just a matter of getting our lovely insulation on. So we’re gonna get a bit on like that, now where the clips are, we’re not gonna put any on, okay? Because the width of the insulation, when there’s two next to each other, is quite tight.
Okay? So now we’re gonna do that.
So, then, like I was saying, there are other ways. Okay, if you’ve got an issue with depth, okay, you haven’t got the room. Now, let’s say, the old days what they used to do, is they’d actually get newspaper and wrap it around it. Anything to stop the concrete actually touching the pipe while it’s wet, okay? And also touching it later on as well, ’cause it does go through pipe. I’ve always found a really good way to do that, is basically, gaffer tape. Gaffer tape is, you pop it down here like so, wrap it around. Then you know now, that nothing’s gonna actually get on your pipe. And the same goes for the floor. Now, if I were to wrap as well, a couple of wraps around, and make sure there’s a couple little ridges as well. So, it’s really sort of free to move as it wants. And once that’s there, and all that, there’s no way that’s ever gonna cling on there, or anything like that. There’s a nice little bit of room in there, as well, it sort of protects the pipe a little bit, so that’s, I said, the other way. So, a closer look at that.