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I need your help troubleshooting a gas oven ignitor.

The ignitor won’t work if you do not have gas or power.

I know the ignitor won’t work if I do not have gas. And yes, I’ve paid the gas bill.

It won’t work if you do not have power either.

The lights are on.

If the oven blew an electric fuse, it shuts off power to the igniter and control board.

The control panel and clock are lit up.

If the control panel is flashing an error code, you may want to power cycle the oven to see if the errors go away, so that the oven will then ignite and run.

There are not any error codes.

If you managed to blow a thermal fuse with the thermostat malfunctioning or the oven temperature control actuator stuck open or another issue, the ignitor won’t work until the thermal fuse is replaced.

It has not overheated to that degree.

So you’re certain the gas valve has not shut due to a safety condition like too much gas or too high a temperature?

As certain as I can be without a repair man telling me so.

You have to turn on the thermostat valve via the oven temperature knob.

That’s like telling me to make sure the thermostat is set to heat when I’m concerned the furnace is not running.

You’d be surprised how many HVAC tech calls are because someone left the thermostat on fan mode when they complain the heat won’t come on. And if the gas oven won’t turn on, it could be because that thermostat knob is broken.

I turn up the heat, and I hear the knob click, and the thing does not come on and ignite.

Then the igniter needs to be replaced.

I’m assuming a match cannot be used in its place.

Whether your gas oven uses an igniter or glo bar, it uses an electrical park or other shock to light the gas and you should never light it with a match. You can turn it on and see if a spark lights up, though not all models let you see that ignition spark.

How can I narrow down the problem?

Turn on a stove top burner. If that can come up with flames, you know the issue is not the gas flow and more likely an igniter or controller in the oven.

So if the stove comes on and there are not any other error codes, I need to look at replacing an ignitor.

Igniters tend to be toward the bottom of the oven, so they can get flooded by boiled over gravy or food debris that fall in the bottom and burn and block the pipe. You may just be able to clean it.

That’s cheaper than replacing it.

Just do not run self-cleaning cycle, or you’ll risk needing to replace the control panel instead of the ignition.

Purchase at www.wholesaleinjectors.com
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This Video is a Quick rundown of how to remove injectors from a 6.6 LB7 and actually Rebuild your existing injectors with a kit that I now sell. We also have these kits for the LLY engine now!!! Its not as difficult as you think it would be. Contact us for the kit, We sell a basic kit for only $435 delivered to the USA. It now includes 8 new nozzles, all O-rings and the copper washers. The tiny replacement steel balls and the return line seals are also available. Cheaper then anywhere else. Hopefully this helps anyone out who is looking to rebuild injectors. You can contact me at nathan@wholesaleinjectors.com or purchase at www.wholesaleinjectors.com. We will sell individual parts too if your interested on the website, but this kit will cover your rebuild.
(We have the standard or the +30 nozzles for the LB7 and the LLY)

Please don’t post requests for parts on the comment section. PLEASE use the email I provided above to contact me about parts or even questions. I don’t look at this page enough to be able to respond to requests here in a timely manner. Thanks