factory customized TU-1F06 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for Oman Manufacturers
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factory customized TU-1F06 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for Oman Manufacturers Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
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The incredibly rich projects administration experiences and a person to 1 service model make the substantial importance of organization communication and our easy understanding of your expectations for factory customized TU-1F06 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for Oman Manufacturers, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Portland , Buenos Aires , Bahamas , Further, we are supported by highly experienced and knowledgeable professionals, who have immense expertise in their respective domain. These professionals work in close coordination with each other to offer our clients an effective range of products.
Fragen an: kuck_der_hueb@web.de oder aufhttps://turbo-sprayer.de.tl/TFSI-TSI-EINLASS-VENTILE-REINIGEN-BeDi-valve-cleaning.htm
Die Reinigung (decarbonising) von verkokten Einlassventilen und Drosselklappen (hier beim 2.0 TFSI EA 113) Direkteinpritzer erfolgt mittels Hochdruckpumpe mit spezieller Einspritzdüse und Liqui Moly Ventil Reiniger.
Dazu wird ein Reinigungsgemisch ca. (75ml Liqui Moly / 400ml Benzin) in mehreren Druchgängen direkt in die Ansaugbrücke eingesprüht.
Dadurch werden Verkokungen und Ablagerungen schonend gelöst und mit verbrannt.
Warum verschmutzen Direkteinspritzermotoren?
Bei allen Fuel Direct injection / FSI und TFSI von Audi (R4 V8 V10), VW, Opel Turbo, BMW 335i, Porsche usw. gelangen Öldämpfe und Blow By Gase durch die Kurbelgehäuseentlüftung (KGE) und die Ventilüberschneidung / internes AGR in den Ansaugtrakt.
Dadurch lagert sich einiges an Ölschlam an den Ventilen und der Drosselklappe ab, welcher dort mit der Zeit verkoken und Leistungsverlust, sowie unrunden Leerlauf verursachen wird.
Die Verbrennungsrückstände an Drosselklappe und den Ventilen führt zu vermindertem Durchlass, Mehrverbrauch, unrundem Leerlauf und erhöhten Verschleiß der Ventile / Schäfte.
Ihr solltet eine Reinigung der Venitle / Drosselklappe, präventiv alle 20-30 TKm druchführen.
Firmen wie BEDI; Lambda und Tunap lassen sich genau diese Reinigung fürstlich bezahlen. Dann lieber selber machen….
!Wichtig!
Nur Liqui Moly, Lamda Reiniger oder Tunap Produkete benutzen. Bitte kein Seafoam oder ähnliches Zeug verwenden!!!
INSTRUCTIONS: The cleaning of the intake valves / throttle the 2.0 TFSI (EA 113) Direkteinpritzer by means of a high pressure pump with special Liqui Moly injector and valve cleaner. For this, a cleaning mixture (LM / petrol) is sprayed into several Druchgängen directly into the intake manifold. Thus, the deposits are gently released and burned.
Why pollute direct-injection?
For all direct fuel injection / FSI and TFSI Audi VW VAG etc. (also my Cupra R;-)) are deposited by oil fumes / blow-by gas contamination on the valves and the throttle valve, which carbonize there with time.
This is a design related problem of direct injection, because the valves are not lapped by gasoline and the crankcase ventilation is initiated directly in front of the cylinder head.
The combustion residue on the valve and the valves leading to reduced transmission, consumption, irregular idling and increased wear of valves / stems.
For heavy soiling of the valves no longer close them from close and overheating and engine damage by burning the valves / seat rings are the result.
I unfortunately can not make recordings endoscope, as this is only due to see, but can say that cleaning is clearly visible, which is also confirmed by the idle fuel consumption.
You should druchführen every 20-30 TKm cleaning the Venitle / throttle. Companies like BEDI; lambda and Tunap can be exactly this purification pay handsomely. Better to do it yourself ….
Update: I just wanted say, someone had posted (then they subsequently deleted it) on video 3/3 that this video was incomplete and people should not watch it. I understand what they mean. Video 3/3 in this series cuts short at 37 secs because my battery died while I was making these videos. I decided to post the videos anyway because I figured a) people would remember for the most part where everything had been and be able to put it back in place and b) I also figured the encouragement a regular person (as opposed to a mechanically proficient person) would get from watching this video–that they can make repairs on their own vehicles, too–was worth posting a less-than-perfect video. So, go ahead and read my not-so-brief description below–it’s worth the read for the encouragment. 
**********Link to Original Tutorial I Watched to Learn How to Replace Actuator***********
Here is the original tutorial I watched to learn how to replace the actuator. Their video is better for tutorial purposes–my video is more of an encouragement to non-fix-it type ladies who are feeling intimidated about working on their vehicle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqbJtTmkYfM
*******My Original Description Below*********
Okay, I’m just a housewife and homeschool mom. I’ve never done any work on cars pretty much ever. Before I was married, I checked the cars fluids on my own and made sure everything stayed at the proper levels, but that was it. My husband and I recently purchased a used 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT. It had a handful of problems but I knew if we tackled it ourselves, we could fix the van up pretty well without spending much more. The driver side window worked intermittently (a default in the switch) and that same switch would stick when pressed downward for the automatic lowering of the driver side window. The other two major problems were the lock actuators in the sliding doors didn’t work. Hence, you couldn’t automatically lock and unlock the doors with a button or key fob. You had to reach around. Normally it’s not a big deal, but with three kids in a busy parking lot and the fact that van sliding doors aren’t designed to be easily unlocked manually from the driver side or passenger side door, it was a real nuisance. So I put together some VERY choppy footage (my camera doesn’t have a pause option while recording), but I didn’t have a tripod to set the camera on, so there are some weird shots where I’m trying to hold the camera and put things together as if I had three hands.
Regardless, the point of this, as exasperating as the process was, is that, if you’re a single mom, a woman on her own, a widow, or a wife whose husband is away on deployment or some other kind of work trip, you can do this! If you have plenty of money, go ahead and spend it–pay the mechanic $65 to do the work for you. However, if you don’t have a lot of expendable money and it’s a fix that isn’t deep in the recesses of the engine, take a chance! Look up the parts, search for tutorials on how to fix the thing (that’s how I learned how to do this! My husband searched for a tutorial and I jumped at the opportunity to try it). Now, as you’ll see in the videos, I did seek out my husband’s help on occasions. He is as mechanically minded as me–which is not much at all! So, I’m at no advantage having my husband help me except I got a break. On my end though, I’m in the middle of a nasty cold and we’re moving so time is scant and pressing, so I was eager to get a break if I could since I was so exhausted and could hardly breathe. Regardless of everything, I enjoyed most of the process. I hope you enjoy yours as well and you don’t get discouraged when things don’t go as smoothly for you as they seemed in the tutorial. I know they didn’t go smoothly for me! But I saved at least $130 in labor and I know I saved a lot in parts by ordering them online for well below the manufacturer’s suggested retail.
