Hot sale Factory TU-1D01-71 thermal wax actuator for automobile thermostat to New York Manufacturer
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Hot sale Factory TU-1D01-71 thermal wax actuator for automobile thermostat to New York Manufacturer Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
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In this video I will show you how to test for spark on a GM type two waste spark system. How to test for proper fuel injector control and how to test fuel pressure and the fuel pump electrical system.
Finally I will show you how to get trouble codes from an OBDI GM with no scan tool.
Engine Performance Diagnostics chapter 15 page 6 chapter 16 pages 9-13 chapter 18 pages 9-17
Symptoms
– no start
– start/stall
– poor performance when it would start
– low power
– ran better with the MAF sensor unplugged
Fix
– replace faulty fuel pump
Tests shown
– how to test for spark
– how to test for shorted injectors using a scope
– how get trouble codes manually by jumping the data link connector (flash codes)
– how to test the fuel pump electrical system from under the hood
Tools used
– Picoscope
– inductive low amp probe
Playlist
– (Chapters 14, 15,16) Fuel Delivery and Fuel Pressure Testing
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAFYVCyenqcrstVqfSc1PCbQ1pebuNIO6
Related videos
– Rough idle, false MAP codes intermittent no start (shorted injectors) GM https://youtu.be/iIO-2LmwkdY
– How to test for shorted fuel injectors (1987-1994 GM Cars)
– How to test fuel pressure, injector pulse and spark with basic tools https://youtu.be/SUxagOAVS5M
– Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits Description and Operation
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium right here on YouTube. There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Help Make These Videos Possible By Supporting my Patreon Page – And Enjoy Exclusive Rewards!
https://www.patreon.com/ChuckE2009
So my VT500 wasn’t running quite right… It would make a weird popping sound at higher RPMS steadily and would make random pops at lower RPMS… There was a weird “sucking” sound coming from the front half of the engine when you revved it, and it would randomly sputter and almost die as you rode it, so we figured it was time for the good ole’ seafoam treatment. While we were at it, we decided to clean the carbs and then REALLY sea-foam it.
Although I REALLY didn’t want to go into those carburetors, in hindsight Im glad we did. Danny really knows his stuff mechanically, and for anyone watching this, it honestly wasn’t that difficult looking. Im no wrench-turner and I still managed to clean the carb on my KLR before I sold it. Basically, all you do is get a clean spot (newspaper, salt bags like we used, etc) then take it all apart, and ideally remove EVERYTHING you can, then boil it or use one of those buckets of chem-dip. If you’re cheap like me, the boiling water trick works very well especially for the cost (free). Anyway, take a $3 can of carb cleaner and spray everything out very well, and wipe out all the crap from the exposed areas with a rag, Q-tips, etc. I used Kleenexes but a rag would be better. Also, using an old toothbrush can really help out as well. Then take some compressed air and blow everything out, do ALL that again, then put it back together.
Bike runs SO much better now, I wish we’de done this sooner.
Thanks Danny! 
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https://www.weldingwithstretch.com/
