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“This is one of the available climate control panels for your vehicle. If your vehicle is equipped with a different climate control system, see your Owner’s Manual for additional information.

The Auto mode may be used all year round. To turn it ON, press this button for automatic cooling or dehumidified heating. The indicator light turns ON when the system is activated. It will automatically regulate and maintain fan speed, airflow and temperature in the cabin.

The AUTO function can be turned OFF by either changing the fan speed, or by pressing the DEFROSTER, MODE, or OFF buttons. To reactivate automatic control, press the AUTO button. To turn the system OFF completely, press the OFF button.

Your vehicle has separate temperature control knobs for the driver and front seat passenger. The driver’s temperature control will set the temperature for both driver and passenger, if the DUAL control is not activated. Turn the driver’s side control knob. You’ll see the temperature setting change on the monitor. Turn it to the left for cooler, or to the right for warmer air.

If you want to adjust the passenger side temperature independently from the driver’s side, press the DUAL button or turn the passenger’s side temperature control knob.

The DUAL control indicator light will then illuminate. Turn it to the left for cooler, or to the right for warmer air. To switch back to driver control, press the DUAL button again.

The MODE button provides a choice of airflow outlets. Press repeatedly to cycle through these choices:
● Air flows from the center and side vents
● Air flows from center and side vents, and foot outlets
● Air flows mainly from foot outlets,
● Air flows from the defroster and foot outlets
● Air flows from the defroster outlets

Press the A/C button to turn the air conditioning ON or OFF.

In hot or humid conditions, a visible mist may be seen coming from the vents. This does not indicate a malfunction.

To recirculate air inside your vehicle, press this Air Recirculation button; its indicator will light up. This helps A/C efficiency and helps block outside odors from entering the cabin. Press again, to turn OFF and allow fresh air from the outside to be drawn into your vehicle. Please be aware that the Air Recirculation feature will not activate while in Defrost mode because allowing outside air to enter the vehicle improves defogging performance.

This button operates the fan speed.

When you manually change fan speeds, it turns off the automatic climate control mode. To return to automatic climate control, press the AUTO button.

To defrost or defog the front and side windows, press the DEFROSTER button. The indicator light will illuminate. Airflow will be directed to the front and side windows.

In the DEFROST mode, the A/C activates automatically at temperatures above 36 degrees Fahrenheit and the air recirculate mode automatically turns off, allowing outside air to be drawn into the passenger compartment to further improve the defogging and deicing performance.

If your vehicle happens to be in Dual mode, turning ON the defroster will revert to driver control, so both sides of the windshield will defrost evenly. Turn the driver’s side temperature to a setting that will best meet weather conditions.

For windshield deicing, your temperature selector should be turned to maximum heat and turn the fan speed to high.

As soon as possible after the windshield is cleared, press the AUTO button to return to AUTO mode. The system will return to your previous settings. Pressing the defroster button for a second time will also revert to auto mode.

To defrost or defog the rear window and, if so equipped, the outside mirrors, push the REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER switch. The indicator light will illuminate. After defrosting, push to turn OFF. If not turned OFF manually, this feature will automatically deactivate in a period of time.

There is a temperature sensor located on top of the dashboard near the windshield that helps regulate the automatic climate control settings. Please keep this area clear of papers and other materials.

Please see your Owner’s Manual for important safety information, system limitations and additional operating information.
”

https://acsdata.com/data-recovery/ ~~~WARNING~~~ ****THIS IS NOT AN INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO**** There are key steps and some proprietary information that has been edited out. This is also only a 10 minute video, where just the head swap alone can take well over an hour depending on the drive. We also don’t show our method for aligning the heads on this particular model.

This video was originally produced because many of our customers were simply curious, or ill informed about what is done to physically repair a hard drive for recovery. This video is not intended to make you think swapping heads is easy. This video is not intended to make you think you can do it yourself. In 99% of this cases, if you attempt this on your own, even within a clean room environment, you will probably lose your data for good.

Also, just because your drive is clicking, does not necessarily mean the heads are bad. Proper diagnosis is key with doing data recovery correctly. Most lower level companies will just try to swap the heads, when it may be a PCB or firmware issue. When the head swap doesn’t work, they will say your data is unrecoverable. We get drives like that in every week, where a customer has been told the heads are bad, when they weren’t. So just because your drive is clicking, there maybe something more to it, but you won’t have the proper equipment needed to verify this or not and neither will a lower end data recovery firm.

The simple message here is, if your data is critical, make absolutely sure you let a professional data recovery firm do the recovery. Even if you have no desire at all to send a hard drive to us for recovery, PLEASE shop around, do your homework on the industry and ask for solid references from the company you do choose. If they are local, maybe even stop by their offices just to check them out first. There are literally thousands of companies out there that say they do this type of work, but VERY few actually do. If they say they can do a physical recovery for $199, you might want to keep shopping. The parts alone can be more than that. In most cases, a physical recovery is going to run anywhere from $600 to $1,500+ depending on the size of the drive, and the type of failure that has occurred.