One of Hottest for TU-1F06 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for New York Factories
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One of Hottest for TU-1F06 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for New York Factories Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
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Our advancement depends over the highly developed devices, excellent talents and continually strengthened technology forces for One of Hottest for TU-1F06 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for New York Factories, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Netherlands , San Diego , Denmark , You can always find the products you need in our company! Welcome to inquire us about our product and anything we know and we can help in auto spare parts. We are looking forward to work with you for a win-win situation.
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song by: Nick Kamarera Feat. Phelipe – Reason For Love
and much thanks to driftenthusiast for making the simple write up I followed and used to complete this installation. (click link for driftenthusiast written write up for more in detail instructions incase video isn’t enough)
https://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/154426-how-s13-jdm-digital-climate-control.html
if this helped you I would appreciate Likes, comments and any questions that arise and I will do my best to answer and reply to every one. If you guys have some time I would really appreciated if you guys could help me out I’ve entered a contest by Enjuku to win a set of coilovers for my 91 S13 coupe its time to replace my stock suspension before anything bad happens XD. by clicking on this link
https://a.pgtb.me/3Dx5Jn?app_data=entry_id%3D33919112
all you do is like their page and then scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see many cars please if you can vote for my blue 91 240sx it would help me out a lot my name is under the image its Steven T with a picture of Ted next to my name XD well thanks for your time 
“I installed the JDM S13 DCC in my daily this weekend and figured id do a write up on it.
I will try do go more in depth to make this install more simple. Some words will be quoted from that post.
^^ This write up is way more printer friendly, i suggest if you have a good idea of what you need to do print that thread and refer to mine if you have any questions, there are slight differences.”-driftenthusiast
Here is the list of parts you will need.
1. JDM S13 Digital climate control unit
2. JDM S13 Digital climate control sub-harness
3. JDM S13 Blend door actuator
^^JDM only parts^^
4. Blower motor speed controller, i used the JDM S13 one, you can also use one “from a 92 Q45 but most mid 90′s maxima with automatic climate control should work to”
5. Optional** JDM Thermo control amp ( i used the stock one with no modifications, not sure if it would change anything)
6. JDM aspirator tube(connects air box to cabin temp sensor) also from “mid 90′s maxima with automatic climate control”
SENSORS
1. JDM Ambient air temp sensor (“you can get it from a 91 pathfinder and most mid 90′s maxima”
2. JDM Cabin air temp sensor (“most mid 90′s maxima”)
3. JDM Sunload sensor (“most mid 90′s maxima”)
INSTALLATION
1. Wiring
The wiring for the DCC is very simple and can be done without any trouble. The only JDM wiring you need is the harness that plugs into the DCC unit. The sensors will plug into that and if you have the sensors with connectors it will make the install easier. There are 3 power wires and one ground that have to be spliced into the harness.
1. Constant +12v power. This wire is the single red wire with a single plug on the JDM DCC harness. I spliced this into the memory wire for the radio, it is Red/black stripe on the USDM chassis side of the radio harness.
2. Ignition on +12v power. This wire is Blue/Red stripe and is on the small 6 wire connector on the JDM DCC harness( see below ). I spliced it into a blue wire on the USDM Radio connector on the dash harness that has power with the ignition on.( see above)
3. Ignition on +12v power. This wire is the Green/white stripe on the small 6 wire connector( see above). This wire can be disconnected at the 6 wire connector and re pinned into the large 16 pin connector( see below) in an empty spot. This spot has ignition on +12v that is already run the the USDM dash side so all you have to do is plug it in and it will work, no soldering.
4. Ground wire. This is the last wire you have to run. On the USDM side of the 16pin climate control connector there is a Red/orange stripe wire that needs to be grounded.( see below) I cut the wire a few inches from the connector and attached a ground eyehook and bolted it to the dash frame.
if this helped you I would appreciate Likes, comments and any questions that arise and I will do my best to answer and reply to every one. If you guys have some time I would really appreciated if you guys could help me out I’ve entered a contest by Enjuku to win a set of coilovers for my 91 S13 coupe its time to replace my stock suspension before anything bad happens XD. by clicking on this link
https://a.pgtb.me/3Dx5Jn?app_data=entry_id%3D33919112
all you do is like their page and then scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see many cars please if you can vote for my blue 91 240sx it would help me out a lot my name is under the image its Steven T with a picture of ted next to my name XD well thanks for your time
https://w34.us/amz/B00AY9HJ10 A blowoff valve (BOV) or dump valve is a pressure release system present in most turbocharged engines. Its purpose is to prevent compressor surge, and reduce wear on the turbocharger and engine. Blowoff valves relieve the damaging effects of compressor “surge loading” by allowing the compressed air to vent to the atmosphere, making a distinct hissing sound, or recirculate into the intake upstream of the compressor inlet.
Hooked up correctly a BOV can hold pressure, and only open on vacuum. Hooked up as a relief valve it will open when pressure from the turbo gets too high.
In the case where a mass airflow sensor (MAF) is used and is located upstream from the blowoff valve, the engine control unit (ECU) will inject excess fuel because the atmospherically vented air is not subtracted from the intake charge measurements. The engine then briefly operates with a fuel-rich mixture after each valve actuation.
The rich mixing can lead to hesitation or even stalling of the engine when the throttle is closed, a situation that worsens with higher boost pressures. Occasional events of this type may be only a nuisance, but frequent events can eventually foul the spark plugs and destroy the catalytic converter, as the inefficiently combusted fuel produces soot (excess carbon) and unburned fuel in the exhaust flow can produce soot in the converter and drive the converter beyond its normal operating temperature range.
An alternative method for utilizing both a MAF and a blowoff valve is to have the MAF located down stream between the intercooler and the throttle plate. This is known as Blow-through rather than the traditional Draw-through set up. Care must be taken as to the position of the MAF to prevent damage to the sensitive element. For example, on a SR20DET motor, the MAF must be at least 12″ from the throttle plate, and the blowoff valve must be 6″ from the MAF sensor. By using a blow-through method, the MAF won’t be affected by the blowoff valve opening as the pressure is vented before the air reaches the MAF.
One approach used to mitigate the problem has been to reduce the boost pressure, which reduces the required venting volume and yields less charge over-calculation by the ECU. The air can also be recirculated back into the intake, a typical stock setup for cars with an upstream MAF sensor. The situation can also be corrected by switching the fuel metering system over to a manifold absolute pressure sensor, a conversion that usually requires a compatible aftermarket ECU or piggy-back fuel controller. The MAP sensor monitors the absolute pressure in the manifold at all times and will correctly detect the change that occurs when the valve vents, allowing the ECU to reduce fuel metering accordingly.
