Professional Design TU-1J02 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve for UK Factory
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Professional Design TU-1J02 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve for UK Factory Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
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in this video I am showing how I replaced the thermostat in 2008 Ford Explorer, This procedure is almost identical from 1997 all the way to 2008 with the 4.0 liter engine. I will be showing you what it takes and the items you should replace while you are there.
This explorers are known to leak coolant from this same spot so chances are that if yours is leaking coolant is from here also..
If you have any questions just ask
hope this helps somebody out.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Falcons Garage, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Falcons Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in my video. Use this information at your own risk. Falcons Garage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Falcons Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Falcons Garage.
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This video covers s plan heating systems and 2 port valves. This includes their plumbing, their wiring, how they are controlled with time clock programmers and thermostats. For more information visit https://www.plumberparts.co.uk
We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares, some of them aren’t. But then suddenly, out of nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today’s plumberparts.co.uk video. We’re gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that’s absolutely integral in an S Plan system. So get ready for the wildest journey of your plumbing life. Let’s just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that’s gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted off to heating radiators or you can have another valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.
Today we’re gonna look at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we’ve got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don’t do any work on electrics if you’re not happy and competent and you don’t have an electrical tester. Always make sure everything’s turned off. Always, before you remove a wire or anything like that test and make sure it’s dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you’ll end up. Dead!
First, let’s have a little wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see, sometimes you’ll go to places and the wiring’s just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, “God, where does everything go?” But if you isolate each one like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few weeks ago in the videos, we’ll be able to find out where to remove each wire and where to put the new one in for the new valve. Get yourself a bit of paper and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle with all control valves, that they need to be open and signal the boiler only once they’re open to tell the boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn’t there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left. Now, it’s a switch, basically, that’s all it is. There’ll always be a constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure the constant permanent live is dead, cause it’s a switched live. The only way you’ll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent live comin’ in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump to tell them to come on. It’s the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on different valves are different colours, but generally nowadays they’ve tried to make them so they’re all the same so it’s easier for you to change. If it is different, have a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go in the right place, then. Let’s have a look at this S Plant system in situ. We’ll also describe that at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we’re removing to the heating system. That’s basically how an S Plan system works. They’re generally controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones, different cylinder zones, things like that, which make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.
Let’s just have a quick look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing water in that direction.
