Special Design for Energy Storage Wax Series for Pakistan Factory

Gas Pipe Sealant Warning!! Use Great White Pipe Joint. The one shown in the video is incorrect.

READ ALL THE DESCRIPTION BEFORE PROCEEDING. CALL THE PROFESSIONAL IF NOT SURE.

Gas heater stopped working. This is a video in two parts. Check out the second video here (https://youtu.be/vO1QRihJuqk). Which will take you from troubleshooting the problem, getting familiar with the gas heater controls & guide you with information & brief details on replacement of the Gas Valve Assembly.

If your gas heater is under warranty for parts & labor, then it is best to call out the professionals. This video should make it easy for you to verify the problem & if you feel adventurous & want to do it your self, then make sure you read all the instructions & safety warnings specific to your model of gas heater before proceeding. If you have any questions, please contact me via my channel.

Tags :
Ctrl z TV, Pilot light won’t stay lit up, Gas water heater problems, Gas water heater troubleshooting, Gas valve troubleshooting, Gas valve problem, Honeywell gas thermostat.

FAQs:

1. How to Reset your Thermal Switch.
Answer:
Step1:Watch the part of the video at 2m & 26 seconds.https://youtu.be/k1qM-ZbYdWo?t=2m26s, remove the two leads from the controller. Trace the wires to the thermal switch & follow step 2
Step 2:Reset the thermal switch or button on your water heater. If your water heater has a thermal reset switch, flip it. If your water heater has a thermal reset button, press & hold it for up to 4 seconds to reset your appliance. See this google images link to see typical places for the reset button, it is mostly on the thermal switch. Plastic piece which is not spring loaded. Thats how mine is.

2. Your video was going very well until it showed you trying to remove the valve. It shows you turning it to the right, then the left & then trying to pull it out & it not coming out. Then you insert a (Recap) in the video & it never shows how you managed to get it out. Can you please explain?
Answer:
I had to turn anti-clock wise (left turns) to completely unscrew the valve from the heater body. The reason why I happened to go right is I realized I had some water leaking & assuming the worst case that water somehow had filled back up into the tank. I did have a leak in my water valve which caused the tank to slowly fill back up. In the end, I drained it & continued with unscrewing (anti-clockwise) till the valve was out. In the beginning it felt like I was going to break it as the plastic body is flimsy. Use your desecration on amount of pressure to apply. If its too tight, left & right turns will help loosen it up. Hope that helps.

3. Hi I have a now 2 year old Kenmore water heater which is supposed to carry a 12 year warranty. My gas valve has gone out & has left me with no hot water for over a week.
Answer:
Sears tells me that this part isn’t under warranty & wants 200.00 for the part. I seem to get a different answer from them each time, but it seems they imply that as a homeowner, you have to contact a sears qualified technician & pay their labor before they will provide the part under warranty. Did you have all these problems getting your part?
My situation was different. I had to contact the heater manufacturer as my home warranty of 1 year was up. However when I called the American Water Heaters warranty support, they performed troubleshooting over the phone & pretty soon we were on our way to replacement parts. Sears on the other h& seem to be violating consumer policies. Here is a link I found about one gentlemen trying to get parts. Good luck with it.

https://rankexploits.com/musings/2014/how-i-got-sears-to-send-me-warranty-parts-i-hope/

4.Wait, what happened at 3:07 & at 3:35 ? — The most important parts of this video are not there, that is, the parts where the line gets connected back to the valve? WTF??
The FTW happened was my camera is faulty & had stopped recording. However , what I did was just unscrewed all the connections. They are all threaded. Now, the part where I am unscrewing the valve, I had to stop recording as I found some water ( few gallons ),which gushed out. So even though you did a water drain, make sure that it is completely drained. Oh yeah, the missing video would have been , me rotating the valve anti clock wise. That’s it. I hope your tank gets back to work.

5. My pilot light comes on ,but after I release the button after holding it for a minute,the pilot gos out,I used my field piece digital meter & set it on millivolts dc & connected my leads to the two wires on the water heater thermocouple wires like you did & the volts went up to 440 in a minute,or a little before a minute & then my meter gets no more reading,it shows OL on my meter,my question is shouldn’t I still have a millivolts reading on my meter even after a minute?

Answer:
OL could mean Over Limit, which means you still have voltage but your meter cannot read it. Do you have a higher setting or another meter?

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This video covers s plan heating systems and 2 port valves. This includes their plumbing, their wiring, how they are controlled with time clock programmers and thermostats. For more information visit https://www.plumberparts.co.uk

We all have dreams. Some of them are nightmares, some of them aren’t. But then suddenly, out of nowhere, you wake up and I arrive like a bolt out of the blue to tell you about today’s plumberparts.co.uk video. We’re gonna look at S Plan systems today and the 2 port valve that’s absolutely integral in an S Plan system. So get ready for the wildest journey of your plumbing life. Let’s just go. So an S Plan heating system is just another way of controlling where hot water goes from the boiler. It can either go to the indirect hot water coil on the cylinder to heat hot water up that’s gonna come out the taps, or it can be diverted off to heating radiators or you can have another valve that diverts off to underfloor heating or even another zone for another radiator, all individually controlled by different thermostats and time clocks.
Today we’re gonna look at the very simplest type of S Plan that you can have. That is, we’ve got one valve here that goes off to the hot water cylinder and one valve here that goes off to the radiators. But before we start, as ever, don’t do any work on electrics if you’re not happy and competent and you don’t have an electrical tester. Always make sure everything’s turned off. Always, before you remove a wire or anything like that test and make sure it’s dead, okay? Because otherwise that how you’ll end up. Dead!
First, let’s have a little wee look at the electrics. So with this cover off, here. Now as you can see, sometimes you’ll go to places and the wiring’s just bonkers. You know, look at that, you might think, “God, where does everything go?” But if you isolate each one like we did on the 3 Port system that I showed you a few weeks ago in the videos, we’ll be able to find out where to remove each wire and where to put the new one in for the new valve. Get yourself a bit of paper and write down everything, every colour, and what block it goes to, and where it runs off to, okay? Now, there is a common principle with all control valves, that they need to be open and signal the boiler only once they’re open to tell the boiler and the pump to come on. If that wasn’t there, the boiler and pump could come on with the valves shut and have nowhere to dissipate their heat, could crack boiler sections and cause leaks and basically a whole hubbub of hell. Fortunately, all the manufacturers have thought of this, so when you do your wiring, you have your earth, your neutral, then you have a live feed to the motor itself so when the thermostat calls for heat and everything it will send a live to this and the motor will motor around, and then it has two wires left. Now, it’s a switch, basically, that’s all it is. There’ll always be a constant live to this. This is why when you need to test for electrics in these things you need to be careful and make sure the constant permanent live is dead, cause it’s a switched live. The only way you’ll ever do that is to wire set the whole system electronically by turning it off and removing the fuse. Now, you have the live supply, you have the permanent live comin’ in on one wire. When the valve opens up, it touches a smaller marker switch and sends a live back down this wire to the boiler and the pump to tell them to come on. It’s the same on all these valves, okay? Sometimes the wires on different valves are different colours, but generally nowadays they’ve tried to make them so they’re all the same so it’s easier for you to change. If it is different, have a little look at the book that was supplied with the valve and make sure the wires go in the right place, then. Let’s have a look at this S Plant system in situ. We’ll also describe that at the office in a second. We have our boiler flow coming from here. It goes up there, just across the top to the pump, which you can see just here, and then it comes down to this T here. Now it can either go off by this valve, off to the hot water cylinder to heat the hot water or by the faulty valve that we’re removing to the heating system. That’s basically how an S Plan system works. They’re generally controlled by a programmer and a series of thermostats. The good thing about an S Plan system is you can have as many different zones as you like. So you can have, as I said, underfloor, different radiator zones, different cylinder zones, things like that, which make it a lot easier to control the services in your home.
Let’s just have a quick look, schematically, about how these systems work. Imagine we have our boiler here, with our pump flowing water in that direction.