Factory Cheap Hot TU-1D01-71 thermal wax actuator for automobile thermostat to Birmingham Manufacturers
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Factory Cheap Hot TU-1D01-71 thermal wax actuator for automobile thermostat to Birmingham Manufacturers Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
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Our well-equipped facilities and excellent excellent management throughout all stages of creation enables us to guarantee total buyer satisfaction for Factory Cheap Hot TU-1D01-71 thermal wax actuator for automobile thermostat to Birmingham Manufacturers, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Manila , Gabon , Hyderabad , We've got sufficient experience in producing products according to samples or drawings. We warmly welcome customers from home and abroad to visit our company, and to cooperate with us for a splendid future together.
Gas Pipe Sealant Warning!! Use Great White Pipe Joint. The one shown in the video is incorrect.
READ ALL THE DESCRIPTION BEFORE PROCEEDING. CALL THE PROFESSIONAL IF NOT SURE.
Gas heater stopped working. This is a video in two parts. Check out the second video here (https://youtu.be/vO1QRihJuqk). Which will take you from troubleshooting the problem, getting familiar with the gas heater controls & guide you with information & brief details on replacement of the Gas Valve Assembly.
If your gas heater is under warranty for parts & labor, then it is best to call out the professionals. This video should make it easy for you to verify the problem & if you feel adventurous & want to do it your self, then make sure you read all the instructions & safety warnings specific to your model of gas heater before proceeding. If you have any questions, please contact me via my channel.
Tags :
Ctrl z TV, Pilot light won’t stay lit up, Gas water heater problems, Gas water heater troubleshooting, Gas valve troubleshooting, Gas valve problem, Honeywell gas thermostat.
FAQs:
1. How to Reset your Thermal Switch.
Answer:
Step1:Watch the part of the video at 2m & 26 seconds.https://youtu.be/k1qM-ZbYdWo?t=2m26s, remove the two leads from the controller. Trace the wires to the thermal switch & follow step 2
Step 2:Reset the thermal switch or button on your water heater. If your water heater has a thermal reset switch, flip it. If your water heater has a thermal reset button, press & hold it for up to 4 seconds to reset your appliance. See this google images link to see typical places for the reset button, it is mostly on the thermal switch. Plastic piece which is not spring loaded. Thats how mine is.
2. Your video was going very well until it showed you trying to remove the valve. It shows you turning it to the right, then the left & then trying to pull it out & it not coming out. Then you insert a (Recap) in the video & it never shows how you managed to get it out. Can you please explain?
Answer:
I had to turn anti-clock wise (left turns) to completely unscrew the valve from the heater body. The reason why I happened to go right is I realized I had some water leaking & assuming the worst case that water somehow had filled back up into the tank. I did have a leak in my water valve which caused the tank to slowly fill back up. In the end, I drained it & continued with unscrewing (anti-clockwise) till the valve was out. In the beginning it felt like I was going to break it as the plastic body is flimsy. Use your desecration on amount of pressure to apply. If its too tight, left & right turns will help loosen it up. Hope that helps.
3. Hi I have a now 2 year old Kenmore water heater which is supposed to carry a 12 year warranty. My gas valve has gone out & has left me with no hot water for over a week.
Answer:
Sears tells me that this part isn’t under warranty & wants 200.00 for the part. I seem to get a different answer from them each time, but it seems they imply that as a homeowner, you have to contact a sears qualified technician & pay their labor before they will provide the part under warranty. Did you have all these problems getting your part?
My situation was different. I had to contact the heater manufacturer as my home warranty of 1 year was up. However when I called the American Water Heaters warranty support, they performed troubleshooting over the phone & pretty soon we were on our way to replacement parts. Sears on the other h& seem to be violating consumer policies. Here is a link I found about one gentlemen trying to get parts. Good luck with it.
https://rankexploits.com/musings/2014/how-i-got-sears-to-send-me-warranty-parts-i-hope/
4.Wait, what happened at 3:07 & at 3:35 ? — The most important parts of this video are not there, that is, the parts where the line gets connected back to the valve? WTF??
The FTW happened was my camera is faulty & had stopped recording. However , what I did was just unscrewed all the connections. They are all threaded. Now, the part where I am unscrewing the valve, I had to stop recording as I found some water ( few gallons ),which gushed out. So even though you did a water drain, make sure that it is completely drained. Oh yeah, the missing video would have been , me rotating the valve anti clock wise. That’s it. I hope your tank gets back to work.
5. My pilot light comes on ,but after I release the button after holding it for a minute,the pilot gos out,I used my field piece digital meter & set it on millivolts dc & connected my leads to the two wires on the water heater thermocouple wires like you did & the volts went up to 440 in a minute,or a little before a minute & then my meter gets no more reading,it shows OL on my meter,my question is shouldn’t I still have a millivolts reading on my meter even after a minute?
Answer:
OL could mean Over Limit, which means you still have voltage but your meter cannot read it. Do you have a higher setting or another meter?
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song by: Nick Kamarera Feat. Phelipe – Reason For Love
and much thanks to driftenthusiast for making the simple write up I followed and used to complete this installation. (click link for driftenthusiast written write up for more in detail instructions incase video isn’t enough)
https://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/154426-how-s13-jdm-digital-climate-control.html
if this helped you I would appreciate Likes, comments and any questions that arise and I will do my best to answer and reply to every one. If you guys have some time I would really appreciated if you guys could help me out I’ve entered a contest by Enjuku to win a set of coilovers for my 91 S13 coupe its time to replace my stock suspension before anything bad happens XD. by clicking on this link
https://a.pgtb.me/3Dx5Jn?app_data=entry_id%3D33919112
all you do is like their page and then scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see many cars please if you can vote for my blue 91 240sx it would help me out a lot my name is under the image its Steven T with a picture of Ted next to my name XD well thanks for your time 
“I installed the JDM S13 DCC in my daily this weekend and figured id do a write up on it.
I will try do go more in depth to make this install more simple. Some words will be quoted from that post.
^^ This write up is way more printer friendly, i suggest if you have a good idea of what you need to do print that thread and refer to mine if you have any questions, there are slight differences.”-driftenthusiast
Here is the list of parts you will need.
1. JDM S13 Digital climate control unit
2. JDM S13 Digital climate control sub-harness
3. JDM S13 Blend door actuator
^^JDM only parts^^
4. Blower motor speed controller, i used the JDM S13 one, you can also use one “from a 92 Q45 but most mid 90′s maxima with automatic climate control should work to”
5. Optional** JDM Thermo control amp ( i used the stock one with no modifications, not sure if it would change anything)
6. JDM aspirator tube(connects air box to cabin temp sensor) also from “mid 90′s maxima with automatic climate control”
SENSORS
1. JDM Ambient air temp sensor (“you can get it from a 91 pathfinder and most mid 90′s maxima”
2. JDM Cabin air temp sensor (“most mid 90′s maxima”)
3. JDM Sunload sensor (“most mid 90′s maxima”)
INSTALLATION
1. Wiring
The wiring for the DCC is very simple and can be done without any trouble. The only JDM wiring you need is the harness that plugs into the DCC unit. The sensors will plug into that and if you have the sensors with connectors it will make the install easier. There are 3 power wires and one ground that have to be spliced into the harness.
1. Constant +12v power. This wire is the single red wire with a single plug on the JDM DCC harness. I spliced this into the memory wire for the radio, it is Red/black stripe on the USDM chassis side of the radio harness.
2. Ignition on +12v power. This wire is Blue/Red stripe and is on the small 6 wire connector on the JDM DCC harness( see below ). I spliced it into a blue wire on the USDM Radio connector on the dash harness that has power with the ignition on.( see above)
3. Ignition on +12v power. This wire is the Green/white stripe on the small 6 wire connector( see above). This wire can be disconnected at the 6 wire connector and re pinned into the large 16 pin connector( see below) in an empty spot. This spot has ignition on +12v that is already run the the USDM dash side so all you have to do is plug it in and it will work, no soldering.
4. Ground wire. This is the last wire you have to run. On the USDM side of the 16pin climate control connector there is a Red/orange stripe wire that needs to be grounded.( see below) I cut the wire a few inches from the connector and attached a ground eyehook and bolted it to the dash frame.
if this helped you I would appreciate Likes, comments and any questions that arise and I will do my best to answer and reply to every one. If you guys have some time I would really appreciated if you guys could help me out I’ve entered a contest by Enjuku to win a set of coilovers for my 91 S13 coupe its time to replace my stock suspension before anything bad happens XD. by clicking on this link
https://a.pgtb.me/3Dx5Jn?app_data=entry_id%3D33919112
all you do is like their page and then scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see many cars please if you can vote for my blue 91 240sx it would help me out a lot my name is under the image its Steven T with a picture of ted next to my name XD well thanks for your time
