High Performance TU-1C07 thermal wax actuator for air conditioner and compressor for South Africa Factories

What is FAN COIL UNIT? What does FAN COIL UNIT mean? FAN COIL UNIT meaning – FAN COIL UNIT definition – FAN COIL UNIT explanation.

Source: Wikipedia.org article, adapted under https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ license.

A Fan Coil Unit (FCU) is a simple device consisting of a heating and/or cooling heat exchanger or ‘coil’ and fan. It is part of an HVAC system found in residential, commercial, and industrial buildings. A fan coil unit is a diverse device sometimes using ductwork, and is used to control the temperature in the space where it is installed, or serve multiple spaces. It is controlled either by a manual on/off switch or by a thermostat, which controls the throughput of water to the heat exchanger using a control valve and/or the fan speed.

Due to their simplicity and flexibility, fan coil units can be more economical to install than ducted 100% fresh air systems (VAV) or central heating systems with air handling units or chilled beams. Various unit configurations are available, including horizontal (ceiling mounted) or vertical (floor mounted).

Noise output from FCUs, like any other form of air conditioning, is principally due to the design of the unit and the building materials around it. A correctly selected FCU, like some of those from the UK, can offer noise levels as low as NR25 or NC25

The output from an FCU can be established by looking at the temperature of the air entering the unit and the temperature of the air leaving the unit, coupled with the volume of air being moved through the unit. This is a simplistic statement, and there is further reading on sensible heat ratios and the specific heat capacity of air, both of which have an effect on thermal performance..

Firstly, it should be noted that ‘Fan Coil Unit’ is a generic term that is applied to a range of products. Also, the term ‘Fan Coil Unit’ will mean different things to users, specifiers, and installers in different countries and regions, particularly in relation to product size and output capability.

Fan Coil Unit design falls principally into two main types: blow through and draw through. As the names suggest, in the first type the fans are fitted such that they blow through the heat exchanger, and in the other type the fans are fitted after the coil such that they draw air through it. Draw through units are considered thermally superior, as ordinarily they make better use of the heat exchanger. However they are more expensive, as they require a chassis to hold the fans whereas a blow-through unit typically consists of a set of fans bolted straight to a coil.

A fan coil unit may be concealed or exposed within the room or area that it serves.

An exposed fan coil unit may be wall-mounted, freestanding or ceiling mounted, and will typically include an appropriate enclosure to protect and conceal the fan coil unit itself, with return air grille and supply air diffuser set into that enclosure to distribute the air.

A concealed fan coil unit will typically be installed within an accessible ceiling void or services zone. The return air grille and supply air diffuser, typically set flush into the ceiling, will be ducted to and from the fan coil unit and thus allows a great degree of flexibility for locating the grilles to suit the ceiling layout and/or the partition layout within a space. It is quite common for the return air not to be ducted and to use the ceiling void as a return air plenum.

The coil receives hot or cold water from a central plant, and removes heat from or adds heat to the air through heat transfer. Traditionally fan coil units can contain their own internal thermostat, or can be wired to operate with a remote thermostat. However, and as is common in most modern buildings with a Building Energy Management System (BEMS), the control of the fan coil unit will be by a local digital controller or outstation (along with associated room temperature sensor and control valve actuators) linked to the BEMS via a communication network, and therefore adjustable and controllable from a central point, such as a supervisors head end computer.

Here is the original tutorial I watched to learn how to replace the actuator. Their video is better for tutorial purposes–my video is more of an encouragement to non-fix-it type ladies who are feeling intimidated about working on their vehicle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqbJtTmkYfM

Okay, I’m just a housewife and homeschool mom. I’ve never done any work on cars pretty much ever. Before I was married, I checked the cars fluids on my own and make sure everything stayed at the proper levels, but that was it. My husband and I recently purchased a used 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT. It had a handful of problems but I knew if we tackled it ourselves, we could fix the van up pretty well without spending much more. The driver side window worked intermittently (a default in the switch) and that same switch would stick when pressed downward for the automatic lowering of the driver side window. The other two major problems were the lock actuators in the sliding doors didn’t work. Hence, you couldn’t automatically lock and unlock the doors with a button or key fob. You had to reach around. Normally it’s not a big deal, but with three kids in a busy parking lot and the fact that van sliding doors aren’t designed to be easily unlocked manually from the driver side or passenger side door, it was a real nuisance. So I put together some VERY choppy footage (my camera doesn’t have a pause option while recording), but I didn’t have a tripod to set the camera on, so there are some weird shots where I’m trying to hold the camera and put things together as if I had three hands.
Regardless, the point of this, as exasperating as the process was, is that, if you’re a single mom, a woman on her own, a widow, or a wife whose husband is away on deployment or some other kind of work trip, you can do this! If you have plenty of money, go ahead and spend it–pay the mechanic $65 to do the work for you. However, if you don’t have a lot of expendable money and it’s a fix that isn’t deep in the recesses of the engine, take a chance! Look up the parts, search for tutorials on how to fix the thing (that’s how I learned how to do this! My husband searched for a tutorial and I jumped at the opportunity to try it). Now, as you’ll see in the videos, I did seek out my husband’s help on occasions. He is as mechanically minded as me–which is not much at all! So, I’m at no advantage having my husband help me except I got a break. On my end though, I’m in the middle of a nasty cold and we’re moving so time is scant and pressing, so I was eager to get a break if I could since I was so exhausted and could hardly breathe. Regardless of everything, I enjoyed most of the process. I hope you enjoy yours as well and you don’t get discouraged when things don’t go as smoothly for you as they seemed in the tutorial. I know they didn’t go smoothly for me! But I saved at least $130 in labor and I know I saved a lot in parts by ordering them online for well below the manufacturer’s suggested retail.

In this last video, I don’t know the final steps simply because I’m not a professional videographer and I was tuckered out. I had a lot of trouble getting the door to “pop” back on. Some of the little green and/or yellow pegs had been pulled out when I took the door panel off and fell, some got stuck in the holes. In other places the ‘female’ receiving end pulled out of the door and was stuck attached to the green peg on the panel. I discovered if you used a hammer to remove the pegs like you do a nail, it works great and you can put the pieces back where they belong. Furthermore, I pressed the auto close button on the side expecting it to close because it was almost closed. Instead, it opened and caught the upper window panel (like the door panel but narrow and goes up the sides and at the top of the window). So, some pegs were dislocated from that as well! I had to use a little finesse and just put them where they seemed they should be and hit the panel back in place before the could slide down. Nothing a professional told me, just something when you see it, you know what needs to be done. I hope that doesn’t happen to you because it was plain irritating when I was so close to being done. Well, God Bless and hope you’ve been encouraged!