Big Discount TU-023 thermostatic cartridge wax sensor for sanitary ware for Paraguay Factories
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Big Discount TU-023 thermostatic cartridge wax sensor for sanitary ware for Paraguay Factories Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
Product detail pictures:
It is our responsibility to meet your needs and efficiently serve you. Your satisfaction is our best reward. We are looking forward to your visit for joint growth for Big Discount TU-023 thermostatic cartridge wax sensor for sanitary ware for Paraguay Factories, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Canada , Porto , Albania , As an experienced factory we also accept customized order and make it same as your picture or sample specifying specification and customer design packing. The main goal of the company is to live a satisfactory memory to all the customers,and establish a long term win-win business relationship. For more information,please contact us. And it's our great pleasure if you like to have a personally meeting in our office.
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OK, we’ve got an AC just barely cool in here. Kind of low on freon. Ompressor’s pretty hot to the touch. Unit’s still running.
It’s going to be charging up through the low side. You’ve got a tiny leak at the evaporator. So we’re going to be using a micro additive. Got our gauges calibrated.
We’ve got a couple of things we can make better. Got our new fan capacitor. We could secure that up. Make that better.
Make sure all our gauges are turned off here. And I’ll remove the cap on the low side. It’s blazing hot today. Probably 109 degrees out here today.
Just going to try to get this going and get off the roof. It’s pretty humid today too, so not the easiest day to be up here. Looks like the Schrader valve cap needs to come out with the cap. It’s kind of stuck on the end there.
Make sure we recover that. There’s our o-ring. Put that back in the cap for later use.
Now we’re going to hook up our quick connect fitting. This is a low loss fitting. Prevent frostbite. Want to wear gloves. Wear safety glasses.
Now we can check our reading up top. See what our pressures are. So we’re showing at about 30, which means we’re just a little bit low. And purge the line.
Make sure all the valves are tight here. Pick up our refrigerant can at the end. Got my can of refrigerant up here. Going to set it up top and run the middle line.
Charging port hooks up to the tank of refrigerant. OK. Open the line.
And back down here, we’re going to go ahead and purge. Purge the line. Purge both sides. Now we’re ready to charge.
Now, because the compressor is really hot, I’m going to dump some cold water. All I have today is cold water. And I actually prefer to use a little bit of ice to cool it down, speed up the charge. But I’ll be using the cold water instead.
So this has been in the fridge for a while. That will help speed the charge up. Going to monitor the line. It’s already starting to feel a bit colder. I’m monitoring it with my wrist here.
What we wanted is for this line here that goes down to the evaporator. And the temperature at the evaporator will start to backtrack up this line to the compressor. This is the suction line. It’s why we’re sucking in the refrigerant there from our tank up top here.
But what I have is capillary tube system at my evaporator coil. And the capillary tube system is a metering device that only lets so much refrigerant through at a time. Now the deal is, the temperature of the evaporator coil needs to be about 40 degrees, which is above freezing. You know, water freezes at 32 degrees. So just keeping that coil temperature up above that amount will mean that our coil is not going to freeze up, and we’re going to be removing heat from inside the unit.
Now as the evaporator coil reaches its 40 degree temperature, it’ll back up into this line. So this low side line is nice and chilly. And that’s going to tell us that our evaporator is that cold also. So that’s how we can kind of monitor and charge this unit up, charge it to where we need it to be.
Again, with the capillary tube system, it’s pretty forgiving. You’d have to really try to overcharge it. Obviously, you don’t want to overcharge it. You want to avoid overcharging.
But again, it meters the refrigerant at a fixed orifice rate. It’s a fixed size. Only lets so much refrigerant through at a time.
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Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey helps a homeowner install an indirect water heater onto an existing steam boiler to boost the amount of hot water in the house.
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Time:
5-6 hours
Cost:
$3000
Skill Level:
Difficult
Tools List:
Hose
Water pump
Level
Propane torch
Pipe cutter
Adjustable wrench
Pipe wrench pliers
Shopping List:
1” copper pipe
½” copper pipe
Y-Strainer
Ball valves
Shut off valves
Circulator Pump
Thermostatic mixing valve
Relief valve
Water temperature sensor
Sensor relay
Solder
Shims
Sand cloth
Pipe dope
Steps:
1. Turn off the main power switch on the boiler and the main water supply to the boiler.
2. Hook up a hose and water pump to the boiler’s draw off valve to drain down the water in the boiler. If possible, pump the water into a utility sink or extend the hose outdoors.
3. Find a spot for the new water heater. Use shims and a level to make sure it is sturdy and level.
4. Find a workable place to tap into the boiler to connect the boiler to the indirect water heater via the heat exchanger coil- preferably just below the water line to avoid any potential for sludge near the bottom of the boiler.
5. Dry fit 1” copper pipe connections from boiler to the heat exchanger coil input. Be sure to place a ball valve shut off at the tap point. Place a Y-Strainer after the ball valve to act as a filter and flush point. Use appropriate adapter pipe fittings, pipe dope and plumber’s tape to connect piping. Make sure all connections are level.
6. Before soldering any copper pipes, be sure to use sand cloth and flux on all the connections.
7. Solder the connections with solder and a propane torch.
8. Break the connection to the boiler draw off valve. This input will now serve as the return for the heat exchanger coil and a draw off.
9. Dry fit 1” copper pipe connections from the heat exchanger coil output to the input of the boiler. The pipe run should include a circulator pump, a purge valve, shut off ball valve and a second purge valve in that order.
10. Solder the connections with solder and a propane torch.
11. Break the connection to the main water supply into the boiler using a pipe cutter. Be sure to have a bucket ready to catch any excess water.
12. Dry fit ½” copper pipe connections from the main water supply to the cold water input at the bottom of the indirect water heater. Use appropriate adapter pipe fittings, pipe dope and plumber’s tape to connect piping. The pipe run should include a tee coupling to reconnect the new run to the boiler. Include a shut off valve after the coupling into the boiler. Extend piping off the middle portion of the tee coupling. Pipe should extend to the indirect water heater and include a draw off valve at the cold input. Additional pipe should also be connected to the thermostatic mixing valve.
13. Break the connection from the boiler to the main hot water feed into the home using a pipe cutter.
14. Dry fit the ½” copper pipe connections from the output on top of the indirect water heater. The pipe run should feed to a relief valve, the thermostatic mixing valve and connect to the main hot water feed into the home.
15. Solder the connections with solder and a propane torch.
16. Attach a temperature sensor to the indirect water heater.
17. Attach an electronic relay to the boiler.
18. Make the electrical connections from the temperature sensor to the relay on the boiler and the circulator pump.
19. Turn the main power switch on the boiler back on.
20. Turn the water supply valve back on.
21. Use the purge valves to eliminate any excess air in the system. You’ll need a bucket to catch the water.
22. It will take some time for the water heater tank to fill and heat up.
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