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How to backup data – IAI SEL type Controller – Electric Actuator

https://www.intelligentactuator.com/x-sel-pc-interface-software-tutorial/

Connection Confirmation…
Setting of Two or more Program…
Controller – All Data Backup – Save File As, etc…
– see details on the video —

The XSEL PC Software is used with IAI’s fully programmable controller line. These controllers include the X-SEL, ASEL, PSEL, and SSEL as well as many older SEL controllers. The XSEL PC software is fully programmable and can perform many of the same functions as a small PLC.

Establishing Communications

The software may display the menu above when the X-SEL PC Interface software is started. Notice that a few of the menu options are unavailable. This is an indication that the software was unable to communicate with the controller (i.e. you are off-line). This may be due to the serial communication cable that is not secure to the PC and/or the X-SEL controller. Also make certain that the controller is ready to communicate by having the Teaching Serial Interface Port switch in the “‘MANU” position.

Once communications has been established, all menus should become available as shown in the image above. To reestablish communications if accidentally lost, go to the ‘”Controller” menu and drop to “Reconnect”. The software will attempt to reestablish communication.

Clearing Common Errors

A possible error that may occur is the “EE6C-DO output current error”. This error is indicating that the digital IO card not being supplied 24VDC. In this case, it is important to check the wiring, polarity and 24V power supply to the controller as shown in the X-SEL Operation Manual. The error may also occur if the controller powers up before the 24VDC is applied to the controller. Once this error has occurred, it will persist until the controller is reset. The error will also be displayed on the 4-digit 7-segment display on the controller.

Another error that may occur is the “ErG” error, that is indicated only the 4-digit 7-segment display of the controller. This error is simply e-stop. The X-SEL controller has a dedicated e-stop terminal at the System IO connector. This should be normally closed contact. While the controller is in Manu mode the e-stop connection of the Teaching/Communication Port becomes active. Also check the e-stop button of the IAI serial communication cable to release e-stop.

Another error that may occur is the “ECA1- ABS Data Backup Battery Voltage Low Error (Driver)” error. This error is encountered on an X-SEL system equipped with absolute encoders. The following section will discuss this situation in greater detail.

Homing

The “ECA1″ error will be encountered on a X-SEL equipped with absolute encoders. This error is an alert that the absolute encoders have lost battery power resulting in a loss of positional information. The power loss may be due to a dead battery. In most cases, however, it is simply caused by disconnecting the encoder from the controller. The encoder battery is located on the controller for easy replacement. Once reconnected, the absolute encoders will have to be reset/homed to clear this error.
Absolute Encoder Reset Menu
Absolute Encoder Reset Menu

The Absolute Encoder Reset Menu provided a quick and easy way to reset the encoders. To open this window go to the “Controller” menu and select “ABS. Encoder Reset”. At the top of the window, there is a drop-down menu that allows you to select the axis (1,2,3 or 4 depending on the system). Once an axis is selected simply click on the button indicated by the red arrow. As you progress the arrow will move next button indicating when the next step should be executed. Once all axis are reset go to the “Controller” menu and select “Software Reset”. This will reset the controller which completes the homing procedure.

In the case of incremental encoders, the actuators would have to be homed every time that the controller powered up. This can be done with the “HOME” command in a program or it can be done through the point menu (see below). During e-stop the encoders maintain encoder power, making homing afterward unnecessary.

Points

The point table stores all positional information. The controller can store up to 3000 unique points. This menu will also provide servo control so that motors can be turned on, off, jog in both directions and move to taught positions on all selected axis or specific axis.

Consider this window as a snapshot of what is stored on the controller. Anything that is typed on this window will not automatically be stored in the controller. The icon “Transmit to Controller” must be used to store the information in the controller. The prompt “Write to FLASH ROM?” asks the information should be stored in Flash ROM or RAM memory….

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This video covers how to chase pipes into a wall or floor screed. Enjoy!

Today we are looking into screeding, I also have to sink pipes into a wall. Now, this was suggested to us by a lovely man on Twitter, I think he was called “disco dimmer” or something like that. His question’s appearing in the screen below me right now. So, anyway, as you can see, we’ve got lovely chase here, it’s been chased down lovingly by Gavin. And if you look closely, we can see, the more you start, this is basically coming out with a grinder. And I’m sure all along, he wore gloves, and he wore goggles and mask. And basically, he’s ground it out, ground it out of there. And then used an SDS router or a chisel, to just gut all this all out, and then sweep all that away. We look at the floor, we can see that he’s made a lovely little screen out just here. We get down, and have a quick look, we’re gonna see that it’s quite deep screen. So we’ve got good sort of, 40 or 50 mil there. And also, if you look here as well, we’ve got a pipe in here. You see, that’s nice and deep there as well. We’ve got a hell of a lot of room. So the thing you’ve got to think about, that’s really important when it comes to sinking pipes into the wall, is obviously the depth of the wall itself, how you’re gonna fix the pipe, so when someone comes over to render this wall, or plaster it or anything like that, that the pipes aren’t gonna move. And also, really, really, importantly, there how you’re going to try to insulate your copper pipe. Now, there’s kind of two ways you can attack it. You can either insulate it to stop the heat getting out, which is obviously a brilliant way, and also kills two birds with one stone. This is very important that the concrete, or any kind of render, doesn’t touch the copper itself, ’cause it can rot through it. So, hopefully, depending on the depth of the screed, we should be allowed to fit in this nice 15 mil by 30 mil wall. And it’s still got enough depth to then be able to render over that. Sometimes you’re trying to sink pipe into a single brace stop wall, which is only as much as four inches deep sometimes. When that happens, you’re gonna want to dig out a pipe there, and then basically gaffer tape up the pipe. We find that that helps to stop anything kind of climbing onto the pipe when it’s drying out.
Basically, what we’re gonna do is, I’ve got some double clips. We’re gonna pop a few double clips in down here, get our pipes laid out in the bottom, and basically get our pipes up in the thing, ready for Gavin to come over here in a few days’ time, to render up, and then we’ll be fitting the radiator back on in a couple of weeks. So yeah, let’s do that now, and I hope you enjoy it. We’ll have just a quick look here, at the depth that we’ve got. See if we can give him enough clearance. I mean, that is lovely. So we can get a nice pipe round there, we’re gonna screen over the top of that, absolute treat. This is going up through the wall, and then out at the top, it’s gonna elbow sort of back over up in the loft space. Just gonna put the elbow there now. Pop that through on up. Ah, look at that. Huge amount of space, there, now. Well, it’s now just a matter of getting our lovely insulation on. So we’re gonna get a bit on like that, now where the clips are, we’re not gonna put any on, okay? Because the width of the insulation, when there’s two next to each other, is quite tight.
Okay? So now we’re gonna do that.
So, then, like I was saying, there are other ways. Okay, if you’ve got an issue with depth, okay, you haven’t got the room. Now, let’s say, the old days what they used to do, is they’d actually get newspaper and wrap it around it. Anything to stop the concrete actually touching the pipe while it’s wet, okay? And also touching it later on as well, ’cause it does go through pipe. I’ve always found a really good way to do that, is basically, gaffer tape. Gaffer tape is, you pop it down here like so, wrap it around. Then you know now, that nothing’s gonna actually get on your pipe. And the same goes for the floor. Now, if I were to wrap as well, a couple of wraps around, and make sure there’s a couple little ridges as well. So, it’s really sort of free to move as it wants. And once that’s there, and all that, there’s no way that’s ever gonna cling on there, or anything like that. There’s a nice little bit of room in there, as well, it sort of protects the pipe a little bit, so that’s, I said, the other way. So, a closer look at that.